|Everest Expedition via South Side|
Do you ever have a dream about standing on the top of the world? Do you have the right ingredients and experience? If your answer is yes! Hurry up! We invite you to apply for a position on our Responsible Everest Expedition for 2011 and 2012.
The most popular choice among the mountaineers for Everest expedition is via the South Col which gives the most assured means of reaching the top. Time spent over 8000m is less in the approach to the summit on the south side as the summit is attempted in one push. Furthermore the south route has a good record of success due to the easy access of the route once it is opened by the first summiteers of the season.
The admired Everest expedition trail is followed to reach the base camp for the Everest expedition. A short walk along the moraine leads to the icefall with large crevasses which are considered one of the obstacles for the expedition. Our entirely experienced expedition Sherpa teams fix this section with ropes and ladders which makes easier for the climbers to cross this section to reach Camp 1. The terrain is gradual climb to reach the Camp 2. From here climbing on mixed snow and ice leads way up the Lhotse Face to Camp 3. From the camp 3 climbing on moderate mixed snow and rocks is not easy which leads to South Col- the Camp 4. The route steepens after ascending snow slopes to reach the crest of the South East Ridge and easy climbing and then again steep climbing leads to the South Summit. A short traverse to the Hillary Step and then climbing on short, steep rock and snow groove of notorious Hillary Step leads to the final ridge to the summit.
Day 01- Arrive at Kathmandu airport (1345meters).
There you will be met by our Airport Representative and transferred to hotel by private tourist vehicle. Overnight at hotel.
Day 02- Pre-trip Meeting and Sightseeing around Kathmandu valley.
In the morning after breakfast at 9 AM, we host a Pre-Trip meeting at your hotel in Kathmandu and introduced your climbing Leader/Guide mean time and it will provide an opportunity for individuals to ask questions about the your trip and to introduce you to other participants.
PLEASE ADVISE US IF YOU WILL BE ARRIVING LATE AND ARE THEREFORE UNABLE TO ATTEND THE PRE-TRIP MEETING.
In THE PRE-TRIP MEETING All passengers MUST bring:
2. Four copies of Passport size photos each.
3. Travel Insurance Policy.
4. A writing pen
After the Pre-Trip meeting and breakfast your sightseeing trip will start at 9.45 AM in the morning. We provide a private vehicle and professional tour guide. We visit Bodhnath Stupa, one of the biggest Buddhist shrines in the world, where we observe Buddhist monks in prayer in the monasteries surrounding the stupa. After Bodhnath Stupa we visit Pashupatinath, the most famous Hindu temple in the country, located on the banks of the holy Bagmati River. Here we see Hindu holy men (sadhus) meditating, pilgrims bathing and occasionally funeral pyres burning on the ghats. We also visit Bhaktapur Durbar Square, which is a collection of pagoda and shikhara – style temples grouped around a fifty-five-window palace of brick and wood. The attraction of the Bhaktapur Durbar Square is The Lion gate, The Golden gate, The Palace of fifty five windows, Art Galleries, The Statue of King Bhupatindra Malla.
The rest of our time in Kathmandu is free for further exploration and some last-minute shopping in Thamel area near by your hotel. Later, we are supplied with our Trek Pack and information for tomorrow activities. Overnight at hotel.
Day 03- Official formalities in Kathmandu.
Formal briefing in the Ministry of Tourism. Today, the expedition leader will also check everyone's equipment. Overnight at hotel.
Day 04- Final Preparation day in Kathmandu. Overnight at hotel.
The last opportunity to buy anything missing.
Day 05- Fly to Tenzing and Hillary Airport in Lukla (2804 meters) from Kathmandu, trek to Phakding (2610 meters) 3 hours.
An early morning start takes us to Tribhuwan international Airport in Kathmandu for the 35 minute scenic flight to Tenzing and Hillary Airport at Lukla at 2804meters. On arrival at the airport guide will brief you and introduce our porters before we begin our trek towards Phakding at 2610meters.
After landing we have time to explore the village while our Sherpa crew sort and load our trekking equipment. Then we begin our trek by descending towards the Dudh Kosi River where we join the main trail to Namche Bazaar, located just above Chaunrikharka (2713m). The walking is easy and after passing through the small village of Ghat (2550m) it is a short walk to Phakding. Overnight at Guesthouse.
Day 06- Trek to Namche Bazaar (3441 meters) 5 hours.
We continue trekking along the banks of the Dudh Kosi, crossing this majestic river many times on exciting suspension bridges laden with prayer flags. After entering Sagamartha National Park, the trail climbs steeply with breathtaking views. Namche Bazaar known as the Gateway to Everest which is home to many quality restaurants, hotels, lodges, shops, Money exchange, internet cafe and a bakery. Namche is one of the biggest villages along the whole Everest trail. Overnight at Guesthouse.
Day 07- Namche Bazaar Acclimatization day.
We will spend a day here in order to acclimatize and adjust to the thinning of the air. As well as a short trek where a museum is celebrating the traditional customs of the Sherpa people. Today we hike up the Syangboche Airport around Everest View Hotel. From this point, we can see rewarding views of the Himalayas with a stunning sunrise and sunset over the panorama of Khumbu peaks. Overnight at Guesthouse.
Day 08- Trek to Tengboche Monastery (3860 meters) 5 hours.
The trek continues along the rushing glacial waters of the Dudh Kosi with magnificent views of the mountains. We trek to an altitude of 3860meters today. On reaching Tengboche you will see the local monastery. Inside the monastery are incredibly ornate wall hangings, a 20-foot sculpture of Buddha, and the musical instruments and robes of the Lamas. The group will be taken to observe a prayer ceremony either in the evening or morning depending on how the days trekking went. Overnight at Guesthouse.
Day 09- Trek to Dingboche (4350 meters) 6 hours.
From Thyangboche the trail drops to Debuche, crosses another exciting suspension bridge on the Imja Khola, and climbs to Pangboche amongst thousands of mani stones. Our uphill trek continues, taking us to the quaint traditional Sherpa village of Dingboche with its exquisite views of Lhotse, Island Peak, and Ama Dablam. We take our time so we avoid getting affected by the altitude. Overnight at Guesthouse.
Day 10- Day trip to Chhukung valley (4710 meters) and trek back to Dingboche. 4 hours.
Today you can enjoy another day for acclimatization. We will have trip to Chhukung valley via the Imja Khola valley to get a marvelous view of the surrounding mountains, especially Lhotse’s massive south wall, then return to Dingboche in the evening. Overnight at Guesthouse.
Day 11- Trek to Lobuche (4910 meters) 5 hours.
Today, the trail continues along the lateral moraine of the Khumbu Glacier and passes by stone memorials for climbers who have perished on nearby summits.We continue to climb as we are heading to the altitude of 4910 meters at Lobuche which is really just a few huts at the foot of giant Lobuche peak. Some breathing problems may arise today due to the altitude. Overnight at Guesthouse.
Day 12- Trek to Gorak Shep (5180 meters) then hike up to Kalapattar (5555 meters) back to Gorak Shep. 7 hours.
Most of this day is spent climbing Mt. Kala Patar, a small peak (by Himalayan standards) at 5555 meters. The ascent is demanding but the climber gets the most magnificent mountain panorama possible: Everest, the highest point on the planet at 29028ft, 8848meters, towers directly ahead and on all sides loom the other giants, Nuptse, Pumori, Chagatse, Lhotse and countless others. If possible we can stay and watch the awe-inspiring sunset on Everest and its neighbours. We make a quick descent to Gorak Shep, a tiny hamlet at 5180 meters. Overnight at Guesthouse.
Day 13- Trek to Everest Base Camp (5365 meters), 4 hours.
Contouring along the valley side, the trail leads on to the moraine of the Khumbu Glacier and becomes quite vague, weaving between mounds of rubble. After about 4 hours we will eventually reach base camp near the foot of the Khumbu Icefall. This will be our home for the next couple of weeks. Overnight at tented camp.
Day 14 to Day 17- Base Camp Training and preparation.
We set about acclimatizing and learning the specialist skills needed for the mountain, such as how to use the oxygen and the radios. We will also hone our equipment and clothing requirements for the mountain, and set aside the food we want to eat in the upper camps (as this will be pre-placed for us by the Sherpa.)
In between times, we rest and get used to the altitude without undue exertion, as experience has shown this is the best way to prepare. We aim to make base camp as comfortable as is reasonably possible, with a heated, triple-skin mess tent, individual tents for each climber to sleep in, broadband internet connection and satellite telephones.
Before venturing into the Khumbu Icefall, we will practice secure movement through complex ice terrain including the use of the ladders and fixed rope. We do this locally, in base camp and on the ice columns found at the lower edge of the icefall. As soon as the route through the Icefall is prepared and after the training in base camp, we will have our first go at the icefall, with the aim of getting halfway through and back in time for mid-morning in base camp. Then, we will progress higher until we know we can get through the icefall and all the way to Camp 1 in a reasonable time.
Whilst we are getting accustomed to the ropes, ladders and altitude, the Sherpas will be running loads through the icefall, into the Western Cwm and beyond.
Day 18 to Day 61- Climbing period from Base camp to Summit and Back to the Base Camp.
Camp 1: 20996ft. (6,400m.)
The camp 1 is situated at an elevation of 6400m on horizontal area of deep snow covered by mountain walls. The area is warm due to sun’s reflection during the day and in the night we happen to listen the deep murmuring cracking sounds of crevasses beneath our tent.
Camp 2: 22145ft. (6,750m.)
Camp 2 is set at the foot of the icy Lhotse wall at an altitude of 6,750m. Cloudy but can expect pleasant weather here.
Camp 3: 23292ft. (7,100m.)
Camp 3 is based at the height of 7100m and this place is adjacent to Lhotse wall at 1220m, which can be ascended using fixed rope and we eventually reach camp 4. On the way to camp 4, climbers need to go through the steep allow bands (lose, down -slopping and rotten limestone). As we cross short snowfield, the route takes them up the Geneva Spur to the east before finishing the flats of the south col. Beyond camp 3, some climbers may possibly feel minor discomforts necessitating use of oxygen.
Camp 4: 27560ft. (8,400m.)
This is the last camp of the Expedition which is placed at the height of 8,400meters. This is considered as the risky part of the climbing from where the summit is not far than 450meters. The Narrow South – East Ridge is taken as the normal best way to attain the South Summits 8,750meters and from here it is easy to reach at the summit of the Everest 8,848meters.
From base camp, the route to the summit can be divided into four separate sections:
The Khumbu Icefall
The Western Cwm
The Lhotse Face
The Summit (South East) Ridge
The Khumbu Icefall
The Khumbu Icefall is an icefall at the head of the Khumbu Glacier. The icefall is found at 5,486 metres (18,000 feet) on the Nepali slopes of Mount Everest not far above Base Camp and southwest of the summit. The icefall is regarded as one of the most dangerous stages of the South Col route to Everest's summit. The Khumbu glacier that forms the icefall moves at such speed that large crevasses open with little warning. The large towers of ice or seracs found at the icefall have been known to collapse suddenly. Huge blocks of ice tumble down the glacier from time to time; they range in size from cars to large houses. It is estimated that the glacier advances three to four feet (0.9 to 1.2 m) down the mountain every day.
A mountaineer traversing a ladder in the Khumbu Icefall. Since the structures are continually changing, crossing the Khumbu Icefall is extremely dangerous. Even extensive rope and ladder crossings cannot prevent loss of life. Many people have died in this area, such as a climber who was crushed by a 12-story block of solid ice. Exposed crevasses may be easy to avoid, but crevasses buried under snow can form treacherous snow bridges through which unwary climbers can fall.
The Western Cwm
A walk into the Western Cwm is to walk into the hall of the mountain gods. It is an awesomely impressive and inspiring place. Gigantic walls tower over you as you move from Camp 1 towards the full expanse of the Cwm above, with the West Ridge of Everest to the left, and the North Face of Nuptse to the right. Here, the Cwm is at its narrowest, and you will find some gaping crevasses across the floor even though the ground is relatively flat. They're so big everyone measures these holes in terms of double-decker buses! But that either means the crevasses need to have ladders stretched across them, which gives easy access (if not goggled-eyed) to their upper sides, or they have to be walked around. Either way, they add to the sense that having passed through the labyrinth of the icefall; the gods have set one more task for you to pass, before they'll let you into their inner sanctum. This final test usually includes at least one steep wall of ice, which rises straight from the floor to give a vertical step of about 30m/100ft and so to the hallowed ground of the upper Western Cwm.
From here, with the gods gazing down from the mountain's upper ramparts, easy (but perhaps exhausting) progress is made to reach Camp 2, nestled below the West Ridge, just short of the foot of the South West Face.
The Lhotse Face
Early in the season, when the face is still unfettered by human steps, this steep section makes for the most grueling and technically intricate day on the mountain. Gusting winds, snow plumes, and the sight of the steep face above greet you at the base of Lhotse after a steady morning walk to the very end of the Cwm, above Camp 2. Careful footwork will have you ascending this section confidently where the laser-straight ascent, which rises on a slope that seems to touch your nose is in stark contrast to the zigzag maze of the icefall below.
Arrival in Camp 3, halfway up the Lhotse Face, gives you a truly rugged, high mountain experience. Platforms, cut just wide enough for the tents, will have been hewn out of the bullet-hard ice by the Sherpas ahead of your arrival. But once that work has been done, it's a mass exodus of our Sherpas back down to the comforts below. The Sherpas play by Sagarmatha's rules and for them, a night on these exposed ledges is frowned upon by the mountain gods. Well that's what they say, but if it only takes an hour or so to get back here, and you can be ready for work before the team's climbers have even risen for breakfast, why wouldn't you take your rest lower down? For those with slower legs (but seemingly normal hearts and lungs), we settle here on our ledge for one of the most glorious sunsets seen by any human in all time (save the Apollo Astronauts, perhaps!)
Typically, our camp is pitched in the lower neighborhood of camp 3 (which can sprawl over several hundred meters up the slope) affording us better shelter from the wind than some of the tents perched above. And, after a night of re-hydration and an initial round of oxygen-rich sleep, it's a return to base camp and then all the way off the mountain to Dingboche before you return here just once more, on the way to the top.
Next time, when we leave Camp 3 at 7,400 meters, you will be gripped by the first flush of true summit fever; down-suits donned, Top Out masks fitted, the first hiss of oxygen spreads from tent to tent as valves are cracked open. This marks the first day of climbing on "gas" and the first stage of your ascent into the "death zone".
The view does not disappoint either. The Nuptse Wall forms one half of the crescent bowl surrounding us, and the West Shoulder of Everest the other. Down the valley, the towering peaks of Pumori and Lingtren, which stand with grand presence above base camp, now look like anonymous ridges in the vast sea of Himalayan Giants stretching as far away as the eye can see. The village of base camp is long out of sight and registers now only by crackling radio transmissions during early morning calls.
The climb from camp 3 launches another adrenaline-pumping attack on your senses as you inch-up the steep Lhotse Face. Using an ascender on fixed line, you grind up, slowly and steadily. After a hard, enduring early morning, the effort is rewarded by a left-hand turn and a traverse across Lhotse toward the famous landmark of the Yellow Band. It's no small relief at this point, as you will have ascended some 1,200-m/3,700-ft from Camp 2. When you look down the sweep of the Lhotse Face, our tents will appear as tiny dots, like peppercorns scattered at your feet.
A second section rears up and onto the rocky Geneva Spur adding exciting scrambling to the mix. The exhilaration of scrambling in such a sensational setting, combined with the apprehension of approaching 8,000-metres and the anxiety of catching your breath on top of the Spur, drawing heavily through the mask, needs first-hand experience to comprehend. Turning the corner here, you will be heading across the home stretch to our highest camp at the South Col on what seems to be flat ground. Now the fixed-line disappears briefly, which lends an enticing sense of freedom, even though the wind usually picks up speed here to whisper caution. The last few meters of walking to the South Col inevitably brings with it a whole flood of emotions, since you've made all but the very last leap en route to the highest point on earth.
After a few moments of contemplation, it's down to business. Navigating to the relative shelter of our tents it is then an immediate dash to remove damp socks, arrange boots to dry, tying down crampons and ice axes outside, and diving into warm sleeping bags while setting to work on sparking up the stoves.
South Col to Summit
After an afternoon of drinking and eating, as well as attempts to sleep (thwarted by excitement and adrenalin), the summit push begins between 10 pm and midnight. Typically the howling winds which will accompany the team in the first hours of climbing die down as the night continues.
At 27,700 feet we arrive at the small platform of snow known as the Balcony. Here, we change over oxygen bottles, steal a few minutes rest and make contact with Mara at base camp, who is on stand-by, maintaining a watchful vigil whilst we reach out for the top.
The route then turns to a sustained 300-m/1,000-ft climb up the South-East Ridge towards the South Summit. The climbing remains similar to the earlier sections: step, pause, breathe, and repeat. Across some rocky steps at the top of the ridge, we reach the South Summit and from here the view opens up to the Hilary Step and all the way up to the top. Depending on whether we have changed oxygen bottles at the Balcony, we may switch again here.
Above the tangle of fixed lines on the 40 foot Hilary Step; it's about 100-m/330 vertical feet between here and the summit. But the sheer drop down the Kangshung Face on one side and the South West Face on the other makes this a section of breathtaking climbing both physically and emotionally hard. And the reward, of course, opens up at 8,848-m/29,028 feet where there's no higher step in the world.
We hope to be on the summit in the early morning, with plenty of time to make the long descent to the South Col. After spending another night sleeping with oxygen, the team will descend from camp 4, on the South Col, directly to camp 2 and then, the next day, to base camp.
Day 62- Trek down to Pangboche (3930 meters) 7 hours.
Here is the oldest monastery in the region which contains what is said to be the scalp and bones of a Yeti, or abominable snowman! Overnight at Guesthouse with nice hot shower after a big adventure.
Day 63- Trek to Namche Bazaar (3441 meters) 5.30 hours.
Leaving the mountains behind us our descent takes us through Tengboche Monastery at elevation of 3860 meters before continuing back to the town of Namche Bazaar at 3441meters. We arrive back into Namche Bazaar in the afternoon. Overnight at Guesthouse.
Day 64- Trek to Lukla (3404 meters) 6 hours.
Finally we return to Lukla where the trip began, which will seem like a lifetime ago. Enjoying time to reflect on the trek as a group and the personal achievement of all those who took part. Also giving you time to explore the town. Overnight at Guesthouse.
Day 65- Morning flight back to Kathmandu.
Enjoying your last glimpse of the mountains you have recently visited for one last time on the 35 minute Scenic flight back to Kathmandu. On arrival in Kathmandu we are met and transferred back to our starting hotel. Once back in Kathmandu, K2 Summit will host an evening party to celebrate the expedition and as a farewell party to thank the Sherpas and the team member for their support and friendship during the expedition with the hope of seeing you all again for next expedition. Overnight at hotel.
Day 66- Leisure day in Kathmandu.
It's also spare day in case of bad weather in Lukla
Day 67- Transfer to international airport for your final flight departure.
The trip ends, our Airport Representative will drop you to the Kathmandu International Airport for your flight departure from Nepal. See you next year for another big adventure!!
PLEASE NOTE: The above itinerary is not a fixed program but is intended to give an indication of the likely events during the expedition. Please note that because of climbing Everest, it will be necessary to have a flexible plan in order to take the best advantage of situations as they present themselves. Any changes to the itinerary will be made with a view to maximizing the benefit to the team members and of ensuring their eventual success on the mountain.
Normally climbers will change their departure flights from Kathmandu when they know exactly when the expedition is going to end. We plan to stay at Base Camp for climbing as long as it takes for us to be successful.
Team members should take out private insurance if they wish to be covered against cancellation due to medical or personal reasons. This is called trip Cancellation insurance and can be obtained from your normal travel agent.
The most required factor on our 'K2 Summit Trek' is that the participants must have a solid understanding of mountaineering skills. This should include previous high altitude experience of at least 6,000 meters, mixed with a multitude of Alpine mountaineering and, preferably, you will have taken part in a previous 8,000-metre expedition. Please let us know if you want us to arrange training program in some of the 6000 and 7000 meters peaks in Himalaya before your Everest expedition begin. Our Three Peaks Climbing Courses or Pumori Expedition is appropriate for preparing Everest expedition.
By our experience we have found that those who have been to 7000 to 8,000-meters peak previously have a considerably better chance of getting to the top of Everest. We would strongly advise you to climb one of the other 7000 or 8,000 meter peaks before going to Everest, as this is the best way of ensuring the money you spend on Everest will be rewarded by a successful ascent and a safe return home. Exceptionally, however, climbers who have not had the chance of climbing 7000 to 8,000 meters peak may consider Everest if they have a compensating depth of experience.
Although fixed ropes will be used where appropriate, expedition members must have the ability to climb Alpine routes. All team members must be competent mountaineers and self-sufficient with the ability to move between and to live in High Mountain camps un-aided or supervised.
Our Everest expeditions are professionally led by teams of competent mountaineers Sherpa who each have enough experience to climb the world's highest mountain, under the supervision and leadership of one of most accomplished and experienced high-altitude sherpa leaders.
Our 'K2 Summit Trek ' are not "guided" because this is not a realistic proposition in the high-altitude realm of 8,000 meters and above. "Guiding" and being "guided" implies the intimate supervision and care of a "client" by a "Guide" who can be responsible for the direct and immediate control of safety. On Everest, such a direct duty-of-care, implicit in the traditional guide-client relationship, is not possible.
• Airport / Hotel / Airport pick up & drop by private car / van / bus.
• Standard twin sharing accommodation in three/four star hotel in Kathmandu breakfast included. (6 nights)
• Guided city tour in Kathmandu by private car / van / bus.
• Full board meal during the trek and camping at base camp, prepared by our cook with hot Tea & coffee.
• All base camp and Advance base camp camping gears (We will provide fully water proof dining tents, kitchen gears, dining table, chairs, toilet tents, shower tent at the base camp and advance base camp)
• High quality tents for all camps.
• Insurance for all Nepali staffs and porters including helicopter rescue provision.
• Boiled and purify drinking water for the trek and at base camp.
• Expedition permits
• Liaison officer and his round trip flight, insurance, wages, expedition equipments etc.
• High altitude climbing food, fuel, Gas above base camp (you are also advised to bring some high altitude food yourselves)
• Guide, cook, porters, helpers up to base camp
• Climbing Sherpas (1 member = 1 Sherpa Ratio on climbing day)
• A well stocked first aid and medical kit sufficient to counter any possible mountaineering ailments, from headache to serious injury.
• Oxygen equipment for medical use only.
• A portable hyperbaric chamber (Gamow bag)
• Emergency communications on the mountain and satellite communications link for helicopter evacuation.
• Oxygen 7 bottles per team climber and 4 bottles per Sherpa.
• Mask regulator
• Sightseeing/Monument entrance fees in Kathmandu.
• Welcome dinner for members in Kathmandu.
• Power supply at Base Camp for charging electronics (solar and generator backup)
• Flight cost from Kathmandu - Lukla - Kathmandu including airport departure tax at both airport.
• All our government taxes and vat.
• Farewell dinner party in Kathmandu.
• Lunch and dinner whilst in Kathmandu.
• Travel Insurance which cover emergency Rescue and Evacuation. (K2 Summit strongly recommends that you purchase a Global Rescue membership to protect yourself. We are an authorized agent of Global Rescue. Read about our emergency helicopter RESCUE & SECURITY EVACUATION Policy)
• International airfare and airport departure tax.
• Nepal entry visa fee (Tourist Visa with Multiple Entry for 90 days can be obtained by paying US $ 100 in Kathmandu airport up on your arrival. You will also require 2 passport size photos You can easily extend the visa if require.)
• Items of a personal nature such as alcoholic drinks, cold drinks, laundry.
• Personal trekking and Climbing Equipment.
• Any others expenses which are not mentioned on Price Includes section.
• Garbage Deposit USD 4000.00 (sharing from climbing group). It is refundable; however, it will not be refundable if the climbers fail to take back their garbage to Namche Bazar and Kathmandu.
• Excess baggage charges.
• Sherpa tip pool (See below)
• Internet and sat phone.
• Costs incurred as a result of delays or events beyond the control of Ace the Himalaya.
|Trip Duration:||67 Days|
|Trip Destination:||Everest Expedition via South Side
|Group Size:||1 - 12|
|Max. Altitude:||29,028 feet, 8848 meters
||Flight, Private Car or a Tourist Coach.|
|Accommodations:||LODGE CAMPING ( Both)|
|Trip Seasons:||April to June every year.