Dhaulaghiri was climbed first in 1960 by an international team under the leadership of Max Eiselin, Lucerne. Since I happen to know some of the team members personally, my description concentrates mainly on this ascent. But in this Overview chapter, I try to inform about the present situation.dhaulagiri, dhaulagiri expedition, dhaulagiri expedition, dhaulagir peak, climbing, expedition in nepal
Dhavali giri is Sanskrit and means white mountain. It is located in the west central part of Nepal. On the altitude scale it is number 7 and it is almost the last 8000er to be conquered. The way of the first ascent is the normal route of today. There are however two main possibilities to reach the base camp. Both ways start from south at the small town of Beni (860 m) which can by reached by bus from Pokhara and Kathmandu.
The eastern valley is called Kali Gandaki and was chosen by the French expedition in 1950. Today there is even an airport at Jomosom (2700 m) in this valley. On the west side of this valley is Dhaulagiri, on the east side is Annapurna. The alternative route is the Mayanghdi valley, which was discovered by a Swiss expedition one year later. Today there are commercial trekking tours that climb on one side, reach the base camp and come back through the opposite valley. But there also organized tours that try to reach the summit. Here is a brief description of such a tour that lasts ca. 45 days and costs around $ 7000, including the flight to Nepal and the fee to the summit.
Reckon with a 10 days climb from Beni through Mayanghdi Khola to the BC on the north side at 4650 m. Food and lodging in tents are provided by the organizer. Porters are included in the price. The participants will spend 30 days at and above the base camp. Food will be supplied at the BC, but the ascent of the NE-spur is left to the team member, without guides and at their own risk. 2-men tents are provided, but must be carried and to four sites on the spur and are erected by the members. Some fixed ropes are already there or will be installed by the organization. Artificial oxygen is proved at the BC in case of emergency.
The route between the last camp and the summit does not follow the spur and the French ridge, as in 1960, but follows the ice field that heads directly to the summit and was abandoned by the first ascent because of too much snow.
The way back to Beni may lead over the French-Col and ambush Pass (Thapa Pass). Then follow the Kali Gandaki to the village of Tuktsche (2600 m). Some organizations walk back to Beni, others reach the airport at Jomosom (2700 m).
Day 01- Arrival in Kathmandu airport (1345meters).
There you will be met by our Airport Representative and transferred to hotel by private tourist vehicle. Overnight at hotel.
Day 02- Pre-trip Meeting and Sightseeing around Kathmandu valley.
In the morning after breakfast at 9 AM, we host a Pre-Trip meeting at your hotel in Kathmandu and introduced your trek Leader/Guide mean time and it will provide an opportunity for individuals to ask questions about the your trek and to introduce you to other participants. This includes a final briefing and preparations for the trip.
PLEASE ADVISE US IF YOU WILL BE ARRIVING LATE AND ARE THEREFORE UNABLE TO ATTEND THE PRE-TRIP MEETING.
In THE PRE-TRIP MEETING All passengers MUST bring:
2. Four copies of Passport size photos each.
3. Travel Insurance Policy.
4. A writing pen
After the Pre-Trip meeting and breakfast your sightseeing trip will start at 9.45 AM in the morning. We provide a private vehicle and professional tour guide. We visit Bodhnath Stupa, one of the biggest Buddhist shrines in the world, where we observe Buddhist monks in prayer in the monasteries surrounding the stupa. After Bodhnath Stupa we visit Pashupatinath, the most famous Hindu temple in the country, located on the banks of the holy Bagmati River. Here we see Hindu holy men (sadhus) meditating, pilgrims bathing and occasionally funeral pyres burning on the ghats. We also visit Bhaktapur Durbar Square, which is a collection of pagoda and shikhara – style temples grouped around a fifty-five-window palace of brick and wood. The attraction of the Bhaktapur Durbar Square is The Lion gate, The Golden gate, The Palace of fifty five windows, Art Galleries, The Statue of King Bhupatindra Malla.
The rest of our time in Kathmandu is free for further exploration and some last-minute shopping in Thamel area near by your hotel. Later, we are supplied with our Trek Pack and departure information for tomorrow. Overnight at hotel.
Day 03- Drive to Beni (850meters) by bus 8 hours.
After your breakfast, you drive to Beni. The drive should take 8 hours and you'll find most of the scenery very enjoyable. Beni is the district headquarters and has a police check post where your trekking permits will be examined. Beni is at the confluence of the Myagdi Khola and the Kali Gandaki. Overnight at tented camp.
Day 04- Trek to Babiachor (950 meters) 5 hours.
Leaving Beni and Kali Gandaki the trek heads west along the north bank of the Myagdi Khola through the village of Beni Mangalghat to Singa and Tatopani (hot springs). Crossing the bridge beyond the village to the south bank of the river, the trail makes a little half loop before crossing another bridge, near the village of Simalchour, back to the north bank from where it continues to the village of Babichor. Overnight at tented camp.
Day 05- Trek to Dharapani (1,400meters) 6 hours.
The valley widens and terraced hills develop on both sides of the river. The trail is fairly level and you pass the village of Shahashradhara, cross the Duk Khola and walk through fields arriving at Ratorunga. From here the valley narrows again and terraces disappear on either side of the river. Continue to the village of Dharapani. Overnight at tented camp.
Day 06- Trek to Muri (1,850meters) 5 hours.
After crossing the river to its West Bank as you leave Phedi the trail starts climbing in earnest and there will be many switch-backs until you arrive at the ridge and the angle of ascent eases. Again the trail climbs steeply to the villages of Muri. Continue your trek to Sibang and Mattim. From here you continue up an incline to the snout of the ridge, descend to the Gatti Khola and reach Phalai Gaon (1810meters). Cross the Dhara Khola to once again emerge on the west bank of the Myagdi Khola and then climb a ridge to the large Magar village of Muri. Overnight at tented camp.
Day 07- Trek to Boghara (2080meters) 6 hours.
Descend a little, cross a stream and continue through terraced fields before climbing a ridge to reach the pass from where you can see Mt. Ghustung South (6465 meters). Descend to the Myagdi Khola and trek along its West Bank to the village of Naura from where you will climb a little before traversing a grassy hill and climbing a steep slope with switch-backs, then descend through a forest and terraced fields to Boghara (2080 meters). Overnight at tented camp.
Day 08- Trek to Dobang (2,520meters) 5 hours.
The trail first descends through terraced fields to a small ridge, then through a forest to Jyardan which is the most remote permanent settlement in this part. After the settlement a high winding path crosses a rocky area which then descends before climbing again to Lipshe where there is on single hut. The trail continues through a forest to Lapche Kharka and then climbs to the level area at Dobang. Overnight at tented camp.
Day 09- Trek to Choriban Khola (3,110meters) 5 hours.
After crossing a wooden bridge out of Dobang the trail ascends a forested area. Soon the west face of Dhaulagiri I (8167 meters) becomes visible through breaks in the trees. Descend to the Myagdi Khola and cross via a wooden bridge to the east bank continue to Chartare. Passing through forests again, you cut across a rocky area and cross a stream to Choriban Khola. Overnight at tented camp.
Day 10- Trek to Italian Base Camp (3,660meters) 7 hours.
Follow a trail to the terminal moraine of the Chhonbarban Glacier and enter the glacier from the right. Tukche Peak (6837 meters) becomes visible straight on; at the far end while the impressive north flank of Dhaulagiri I (8167 meters) dominates the skyline to your right. After a short while you will reach Italian Base Camp (3660 meters), which is also the site of your camp for the night. To the west are the peaks of Dhaulagiri II (7751meters), Dhaulagiri III (7715 meters) and Dhaulagiri V (7618 meters). Overnight at tented camp.
Day 11- Acclimatization and rest day.
We will spend a day here in order to acclimatize and adjust to the thinning of the air. It is recommended that your body acclimatizes to the high altitude and be "tuned" for the even higher altitudes to come. Overnight at tented camp.
Day 12- Trek to Glacier Camp (4210meters) 6 hours.
Set up early in the morning when the weather is expected to be clear. This Trail is prone to stone fall, which passes through a narrow gorge. Today we stay overnight near at glacier. Overnight at tented camp.
Day 13- Trek to Dhaulagiri Base Camp (4740meters) 7 hours.
This is one of our adventurous days to Dhaulagiri base camp. From here you can look up at the impressive north face of Dhaulagiri I (8167 meters) dominating the skyline to your right. To the west are peaks of Dhaulagiri II (7751meters), Dhaulagiri III (7715 meters) and Dhaulagiri V (7618 meters). In front of you is the impressive icefall that descends from the north east col. Overnight at tented camp.
Day 13-42: Climbing Period of Dhaulagiri 8167m.
Day 43: Prepared for coming back
Day 44: Cross French Pass (5360 meters) then trek to Hidden Valley (5200meters) 6 hours.
After the glacier you climb two terraced hills, the first of which runs along the glacier, then cutts across the mountain flank and the moraine you enter a gentle incline on the left from an ablation valley. Climb this gentle slope to the French Pass (5360 meters). A great vista opens up from the French Pass and you will be able to see Mukut Himal (6328 meters), Tashi Kang (6386 meters) and Sita Chuchura (6611 meters), all of which surround the Hidden Valley. To the south is Tukche Peak (6920 meters) and beyond is the massive peak of Dhaulagiri I. From French Pass you continue along the right edge of the Hidden valley losing a little altitude to Thapa Pass (5250meters) between Tukche Peak and Thapa Peak (6,012 meters). Descending from Thapa Pass you will make it to camp at 5200 meters. Overnight at tented camp.
Day 45: Cross Dhampus Pass (5200 meters), and trek toYak Kharka (3,680meters) 6 hours.
Descend from the hidden valley to the Dhampus Pass and continue to Yak Kharka. There is a perfect camp site to enjoy the surroundings. Overnight at tented camp.
Day 46: Trek to Jomsom (2,710meters) 5 hours.
Descend to the village of Marpha, on the west bank of the Kali Gandaki River. Marpha is home to many apple orchids as well as all the various food products made from fruit. Apple Brandy is a local specialty that you may be lucky enough to taste en route. Continue north, up the river valley to the town of Jomsom. Overnight at tented camp.
Day 47: Thirty five minutes morning fly to Pokhara (900 meters) and sightseeing same day.
Today 35 minutes morning flight takes us to Pokhara from Jomsom. Once we arrived at Pokhara airport, we then drive to hotel. In the afternoon we will have a sightseeing tour around Pokhara valley, which covers Fewa Lake, Devi’s water fall, Museum, Tibetan refugee settlement and Gupteshower cave etc. Overnight at hotel.
Day 48: Leisure day in Pokhara.
It's also spare day in case of bad weather in Jomsom. Overnight at hotel.
Day 49- Drive to Kathmandu by bus 7 hours.
Overnight back at the hotel in Kathmandu by bus. If you are interested in continuing onto Chitwan Jungle Safari, River Rafting Adventure, Kathmandu Shopping Tour or Scenic Everest Flight. Overnight at hotel.
Day 50- Transfer to international airport for your final departure.
The trip ends, our Airport Representative will drop you to the Kathmandu international airport for your final flight departure from Nepal.
NOTE: The above information is a guide and standard template of what we provide. The trek can be customized at your request to accommodate your specific requirements.
NOTE : On adventure trips of this type, weather, local politics, transport or a multitude of other factors beyond our control can result in a change of itinerary. It is, however, very unlikely that the itinerary would be substantially altered; if alterations are necessary the leader will decide what is the best alternative, taking into consideration the best interests of the whole group. Where a change does occur, we do everything we can to minimize its effect, but we cannot be responsible for the results of changes or delays.
• Airport transfers (domestic and international both)
• Press conference arrangement.
• 5 nights hotel accommodation at Hotel Yak and Yeti or similar with breakfast.
• Climbing Permit fee form Mt. Dhaulagiri and Annapurna consrvation Area entry permit fee.
• Food & Fuel during the trek and expedition period.
• North Face or similar quality high altitude tent for higher camps
• Single tent for each member, staffs, climbing Sherpa at the base camp.
• 5/5 bottles of oxygen per member and guide with mask and regulator.
• Staff: Base camp Guide, Cook, Cook helper.
• Porters/Yaks to and from base camp.
• One high altitude Sherpa for one climber (1:1) who assist you whilst on climbing and summit attempt as well as carries food and gears to high camps.
• Government liaison officer, his insurance, daily allowance, equipment allowance and flight fares.
• Flight fare for member and staff (Jomsom - Pokhara).
• Insurance, equipment allowance, wages and daily allowance for expedition staffs.
• All camping equipments: sleeping tents, mattress, dining tent, toilet tent, mess tent, store tent, table & chairs and other necessary kitchen utensils whilst on trekking and expedition.
• Group climbing equipment such as necessary fixed rope, ice screws, ice bars etc.
• First Aid kit bag, trekking map & duffel bag.
• Solar panel at the base camp.
• Restop toilet bag.
• Satalite phone (Pay Call).
• Walkie Talkie for each staff and member.
• Mountain cans cleaning at high camps.
• Cargo transportation to supply the food and gears to Beni and back from Jomsom
• All ground transportation
• Necessary documentation and governmental official paper works.
• All applicable taxes as per the government rules and regulations.
• Personal climbing gears.
• Extra hotels in Kathmandu (after 5 nights).
• Personal climbing insurance which covers travel, medical, accident, evacuation etc.
• Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu.
• Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter.
• Applicable permit fees and custom charges for using communication equipment, commercial filming, satellite phone, radio etc.
• Carrying bonus + Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa
• Personal expenses such as laundry, telephone, e-mail, etc.
• Bar and beverage bills..
• Custom clearances in Kathmandu International airport.
• Gratitute (tip) for the staff etc.
|Trip Duration:||50 Days|
|Trip Destination:||Dhaulagiri Expedition
|Group Size:||1 - 12|
|Max. Altitude:||8167 meters
||Flight, Private Car or a Tourist Coach.|
|Accommodations:||LODGE CAMPING ( Both)|
|Trip Seasons:||April to June per year / Spring & Autumn|