Mount Lhotse (8516) was climbed by a Swiss expedition in 1956. Its lower peak, mount Lhotse Shar 8383m, sometimes considered a separate 8000m peak, Mount Lhotse , which means "South peak" is a part of the Everest massif, just to the south of Everest. The primary route on mount Lhotse is via Everest's South Col. But by 1955, despite the activity on Mount Everest, Lhotse was the highest unclimbed peak in the world.
The first attempt on Mount Lhotse was by an international team in 1955. One member of the party was Erwin Schneider; during this expedition, he began work on the first of the series of high-quality "Schneider maps of the Everest region". The same Swiss party that made the second ascent of Everest in 1956 made the first ascent of Mount Lhotse from a camp just below the South Col.
Mount Lhotse Shar was first climbed by an Austrian expedition in 1970. Japanese, South Koreans, and Germans attempted from various routes on its main peak. Poles and Italians also climbed the summit before the summit was reached again by German expeditions in 1977.
The Lhotse Face/Route
The western flank of Lhotse is known as the Lhotse Face. Any climber bound for the South Col on Everest must climb this 1,125m (3,700ft) wall of glacial blue ice. This face rises at 40 and 50 degree pitches with the occasional 80 degree bulges. Two rocky sections called the Yellow Band and the Geneva Spur interrupt the icy ascent on the upper part of the face.
The south face is one of the most impressive walls in Himalayas. The first expedition from the south side was Yuogoslavian leading by A.Kunaver. They selected the left side of the wall but they manage to only get to 8100 meters. In 1985,1987 and 1989 three Polish expedition tried to climb the wall. The highest point they reach was 8300 meters. During the last expedition, Jerzy Kukuczka-the second person who climbed all 8000 meter peaks died during the attempt. Another expedition in 1989 lead by Reinhold Messner failed due to problems between members.
In 1990 Tomo Cesen said that he climbed the wall via Yugoslavian route. The climb caused much controversy because many climbers didn't believe that the wall, which was unclimbed by so many good climbers, was by climbed by single person. He later changed his mind claiming that he didn't reach the top but the summit ridge. However, public opinion is that he reached only about 7000 meters.
The south face was finally climbed in 1990 by Russian expedition few months after Cesen's climb. They describe the wall as impossible to be climbed by a single person.
Day:01 Arrival KTM & transfer to hotel -1300m/4264ft
Upon your arrival in the Tribhuvan international airport, our representative will welcome you and will assist to transfer you in your hotel in Kathmandu. You may relax at your hotel or go around for shopping. In the evening Himalayan Glacier Trekking will organize welcome dinner for you in one of the typical Nepalese restaurant in the heart of Kathmandu meanwhile briefing about your adventurous trip will take place. Overnight at hotel.
Day:02-03 At leisure in Kathmandu
Sightseeing and Preparation for Everest Expedition. While the leader attends a formal briefing in the Ministry of Tourism, you will explore the fascinating city of Kathmandu. You will visit famous Stupa, Boudhnath and the popular Hindu pilgrimage site, Pashupatinath Temple. In the late afternoon, the leader will check everyone's equipment, as Kathmandu is the last opportunity to buy anything missing. You will also get introduced with fellow expedition members and guides. Overnight at hotel.
Day:04 Fly Kathmandu to Lukla - 2,840m/9,315ft
An early morning scenic flight to Lukla. In Lukla, we will meet our camp staff and porters and set off straightaway for our first night's stop at Phakding. Situated on the banks of the Dudh Kosi which drains the whole of the Khumbu region, Phakding on the main trade route through the area and there are a number of clean well-built lodges where we can spend the night.
Day:05 Trek to Namche Bazar
Continue up the banks of the Dudh Kosi, crossing it twice by small suspension bridges before reaching the village of Monjo where we will enter the Khumbu National Park. Cross the confluence of the Dudh Kosi and the Bhote Kosi on a high suspension bridge and climb steeply for about two hours to reach Namche Bazaar. This is a prosperous trading town and the capital of the Khumbu region with genuine Tibetan artifacts.
Day:06 At leisure in Namche Bazar
We spend a day in Namche Bazar resting and allowing our bodies to become acclimatized to the altitude of 3,450m (11,300ft).
Day:07 Trek to Thyangboche
The well worn Everest trail contours around the side of the valley high above the Dudh Kosi. Follow the path, savoring the first really good views of the great peaks of the Khumbu: Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam. Passing by several villages and numerous tea shops, cross the Dudh Kosi River and make a steep climb to Thyangboche, home of an impressive and newly rebuilt monastery.
Day:08 Trek to Dingboche
Shaded by rhododendron trees, the path leads gradually down to the river once again to another airy suspension bridge. An hour's walking from here brings us to Pangboche, an excellent viewpoint for Ama Dablam. Contouring up the valley side, re-cross the river and turn up the Imja valley to reach the picturesque farming village of Dingboche.
This is an important phase of the expedition. Dingboche is a good location for acclimatization. The team leader will organize daily outings to the adjacent hills with the aim of providing gradual acclimatization. Walk some of the nearby hills in order to slowly increase exposure to altitude. Follow the regime that you have previously found most suitable, in order to give you maximum acclimatization before arrive in base camp.
While in Dingboche, we can attend a seminar on high altitude acclimatization at a hospital run by the Himalayan Rescue Association nearby Pheriche. The walk over to Pheriche and back will also serve as good acclimatization training.
Day:14-40 Climbing period of Lhotse and Back to Base Camp
Day:41:43 Trek to Namche Bazaar via Dingboche and Thyangboche
Day:44-45 Trek to Phakding and Lukla
Day:46 Fly Lukla to Kathmandu
We will return to the welcome haven of the Hotel. Once back in Kathmandu, Himalayan Glacier will host an evening barbecue to celebrate the expedition and as a farewell party to thank the Sherpas for their support and friendship.
Day:47 Rest day in Kathmandu
Today the journey comes to an end. There's nothing to do but trade emails with your new friends, organize all your photos and final preparation for departure from Nepal.
Day:48 Departure to your next destination
Trek to Base camp:
The initial days of trekking takes us deep into the Khumbu Valley. The moderately paced trek also helps in enough time for acclimatization. Walking past several Sherpa villages also provides an opportunity to acquaint with the Himalayan culture. The trek winds through some of the most spectacular mountain scenery on earth, where you can relax in exotic, friendly Sherpa villages. Our trusty yaks and porters carry all of your baggage, so you don't have to carry a heavy rucksack.
Base camp to Camp 1:
The Base Camp for Lhotse is the same as for the Everest Expedition. Other camps are Camp 1, Camp 2, and Camp 3 and then you split off from there to a Lhotse Camp 4. Clip in to the fixed lines to head through the Khumbu Icefall up to the plateau of the Western Cwm and camp 1, at 5,800 metres/19,000 feet.
From Camp 1 to Camp 2:
The route traverses the flattish bottom of the Western Cwm, to 6,200 metres/20,300 feet to camp 2. Camp 2 is located on a rocky moraine below the west-face of Everest. In camp 2 our sherpa cook will prepare hot meals and drinks.
Camp 2 to Camp 3:
Located on a flat section protected by solid ice walls at about 7,200 metres/23,600 feet on the Lhotse face. To reach camp 3, we must negotiate the Lhotse Face. The Lhotse face is not very technical, in fact, after climbing the initial 38-65 degree 100 metre/300 foot high ramp, the average slope angle of the entire 'face' is around 30 degrees.
Camp 3 to Camp 4:
Located upon rock shelves on the upper Lhotse face. It is the highest camp at 7850 metres/25,700 feet, and can be an airy perch for the few days we reside there. Camp 4 at 7850 metres/25,700 feet on the upper Lhotse face.
• Expedition Expedition permit fees
• Accommodations in Kathmandu
• Flights from Kathmandu to Lukla and back including airport transfers
• All overnight accommodations while on the trek and climb
• Meals in Kathmandu and while trekking and climbing
• Group equipment for the climb
• Qualified and Experienced guides
• Experienced Climbing Sherpas
• International airfare and Nepal Visa
• Personal equipments and extra services
• Tips and Bonus for Staff and guide
• Insurance and Trip cancellation
• Airport departure tax
• Helicopter Rescue
|Trip Duration:||48 Days|
|Trip Destination:||Manaslu Expedition
|Group Size:||1 - 12|
|Max. Altitude:||8516 meters
||Flight, Private Car or a Tourist Coach.|
|Accommodations:||LODGE CAMPING ( Both)|
|Trip Seasons:||April to June every year.