Ama Dablam 6,856m (22,494ft) is one of the most stunning peaks in the Himalaya and one of the most impressive mountains in the world. It is located the heart of Everest's Khumbu region, it lies directly above Tengboche Monastery on the well-worn path to Everest Base Camp and is admired by thousands of trekkers and climbers every year. This expedition offers a superb, technical climbing experience in a magnificent setting, with numerous cultural and scenic diversions.
Like the Matterhorn in the Swiss Alps, Ama Dablam epitomizes all that is grand about the mountains. Its striking features have become a familiar figure to the public through its adoption as the logo of 'Perpetual', an international assurance company, and numerous posters and books throughout the world. Such impressive beauty has made Ama Dablam a highly coveted prize for climbers. Since its first ascent in 1961 by an Anglo-American-New Zealand team, it has been climbed frequently and by many different routes.
Our route will be by the original line of ascent, the South West Ridge. This gives a fine and varied climb, sustained at a reasonable level of difficulty and with good camp platforms at strategic points. The climbing provides interest on rock, snow and ice and although of a fairly technical nature, in normal conditions it is never very difficult. Apart from one short section, the climb is objectively very safe.
If you have the necessary experience and wish to participate fully as a team member of an expertly led expedition to one of the world's most impressive mountains, this could be the trip for you!
You can take our Ama Dablam Expedition as a training program for your Everest or any 8000 meters peaks expedition.
Day 01- Arrive at Kathmandu airport (1345meters). Overnight at hotel.
There you will be met by our Airport Representative and transferred to hotel by private tourist vehicle. Overnight at hotel.
Day 02- Pre-trip Meeting and Sightseeing around Kathmandu valley. Overnight at hotel.
In the morning after breakfast at 9 AM, we host a Pre-Trip meeting at your hotel in Kathmandu and introduced your climbing Leader/Guide mean time and it will provide an opportunity for individuals to ask questions about the your trip and to introduce you to other participants.
PLEASE ADVISE US IF YOU WILL BE ARRIVING LATE AND ARE THEREFORE UNABLE TO ATTEND THE PRE-TRIP MEETING.
In THE PRE-TRIP MEETING All passengers MUST bring:
2. Four copies of Passport size photos each.
3. Travel Insurance Policy.
4. A writing pen
After the Pre-Trip meeting and breakfast your sightseeing trip will start at 9.45 AM in the morning. We provide a private vehicle and professional tour guide. We visit Bodhnath Stupa, one of the biggest Buddhist shrines in the world, where we observe Buddhist monks in prayer in the monasteries surrounding the stupa. After Bodhnath Stupa we visit Pashupatinath, the most famous Hindu temple in the country, located on the banks of the holy Bagmati River. Here we see Hindu holy men (sadhus) meditating, pilgrims bathing and occasionally funeral pyres burning on the ghats. We also visit Bhaktapur Durbar Square, which is a collection of pagoda and shikhara – style temples grouped around a fifty-five-window palace of brick and wood. The attraction of the Bhaktapur Durbar Square is The Lion gate, The Golden gate, The Palace of fifty five windows, Art Galleries, The Statue of King Bhupatindra Malla.
The rest of our time in Kathmandu is free for further exploration and some last-minute shopping in Thamel area near by your hotel. Later, we are supplied with our Trek Pack and information for tomorrow activities. Overnight at hotel.
Day 03- Official formalities in Kathmandu.
Formal briefing in the Ministry of Tourism. Today, the expedition leader will also check everyone's equipment. Overnight at hotel.
Day 04- Final Preparation day in Kathmandu. Overnight at hotel.
The last opportunity to buy anything missing.
Day 05- Fly to Tenzing and Hillary Airport in Lukla (2804 meters) from Kathmandu, trek to Phakding (2610 meters) 3 hours. Overnight at Guesthouse.
An early morning start takes us to Tribhuwan international Airport in Kathmandu for the 35 minute scenic flight to Tenzing and Hillary Airport at Lukla at 2804meters. On arrival at the airport guide will brief you and introduce our porters before we begin our trek towards Phakding at 2610meters.
After landing we have time to explore the village while our Sherpa crew sort and load our trekking equipment. Then we begin our trek by descending towards the Dudh Kosi River where we join the main trail to Namche Bazaar, located just above Chaunrikharka (2713m). The walking is easy and after passing through the small village of Ghat (2550m) it is a short walk to Phakding. Overnight at Guesthouse.
Day 06- Trek to Namche Bazaar (3441 meters) 5 hours. Overnight at Guesthouse.
We continue trekking along the banks of the Dudh Kosi, crossing this majestic river many times on exciting suspension bridges laden with prayer flags. After entering Sagamartha National Park, the trail climbs steeply with breathtaking views. Namche Bazaar known as the Gateway to Everest which is home to many quality restaurants, hotels, lodges, shops, Money exchange, internet cafe and a bakery. Namche is one of the biggest villages along the whole Everest trail. Overnight at Guesthouse.
Day 07- Namche Bazaar Acclimatization day. Overnight at Guesthouse.
We will spend a day here in order to acclimatize and adjust to the thinning of the air. As well as a short trek where a museum is celebrating the traditional customs of the Sherpa people. Today we hike up the Syangboche Airport around Everest View Hotel. From this point, we can see rewarding views of the Himalayas with a stunning sunrise and sunset over the panorama of Khumbu peaks. Overnight at Guesthouse.
Day 08- Trek to Tengboche Monastery (3860 meters) 5 hours. Overnight at Guesthouse.
The trek continues along the rushing glacial waters of the Dudh Kosi with magnificent views of the mountains. We trek to an altitude of 3860meters today. On reaching Tengboche you will see the local monastery. Inside the monastery are incredibly ornate wall hangings, a 20-foot sculpture of Buddha, and the musical instruments and robes of the Lamas. The group will be taken to observe a prayer ceremony either in the evening or morning depending on how the days trekking went. Overnight at Guesthouse.
Day 09- Trek to Dingboche (4350 meters) 6 hours. Overnight at Guesthouse.
From Thyangboche the trail drops to Debuche, crosses another exciting suspension bridge on the Imja Khola, and climbs to Pangboche amongst thousands of mani stones. Our uphill trek continues, taking us to the quaint traditional Sherpa village of Dingboche with its exquisite views of Lhotse, Island Peak, and Ama Dablam. We take our time so we avoid getting affected by the altitude. Overnight at Guesthouse.
Day 10- Acclimatization day. Overnight at guest house.
Today you can enjoy another day for acclimatization. We may have trip to Chhukung valley via the Imja Khola valley to get a marvellous view of the surrounding mountains, especially Lhotse’s massive south wall, then return to Dingboche in the evening. Overnight at Guesthouse.
Day 11- Trek to Ama Dblam Base Camp (4600 meters), 5 hours. Overnight at tented camp.
We trek back down the trail to the bridge at Pangboche and cross the Dudh Kosi before climbing up the far side of the river and following the trail and ridgeline up to base camp (3.5 hours from Pangboche). Base camp is an idyllic spot from which the majority of the route is visible. At an altitude of about 15,000ft (4,600meters) it provides a comfortable escape from the rigours of the climb. Our porters deposit their loads and leave us here for the next 3 weeks, with only our Sirdar, Sherpas and Cook staff remaining.
Day 12 - Today is a rest day and acclimatization. Overnight at tented camp.
Day 13 to 27- Climbing period of Ama Dablam.
We do not provide a prescriptive day-to-day itinerary for the climb, as this will be decided by the expedition leader and member. They will take a flexible approach based on their own experience. Typically, the team will spend a few days at base camp organizing food, practicing rope skills and acclimatizing before moving above base camp. It is normal to 'tag' or spend at least one night in camp 1 (5,700m) as part of any acclimatization schedule, before returning to base camp, resting and preparing for a summit push.
Ama Dablam Climb via South West Ridge
After base camp 4,600m old grassy moraine ridges are followed roughly eastwards to a broad saddle 5,150m from where we can see the Mingbo La. From the saddle we ascend easily northwards until the ground steepens at the start of a large boulder field. It is possible to place an Advanced Base Camp at 5,400m below the boulder field. The route continues in a northwards direction around the base of the boulder field, and then follow cairns upwards towards the toe of the SW ridge. Camp 1 should now be visible just below Pt. 5,705m. At the end of the boulder field, slabs are crossed and then a short gully ascended, which allows access to the ridge proper in a very exposed position. Easy scrambling on the east side of the ridge leads quickly to Camp. There are four or five tent platforms.
From Camp 1 we contour round the snowy bowl (possible alternative site for Camp 1) until below two rock fingers. The east side of the ridge is followed, climbing easy mixed ground until a short pitch of severe standard leads to the ridge proper. The ridge is narrow in places, turning difficulties on the east side, until the second tension traverse leads to two pitches of Very Severe standard. The route continues on the crest of the ridge for a short distance until we are forced via an awkward step onto the west side of the ridge. The crest of the ridge is regained and easy ground followed to the start of a traverse on the east face, which leads to the Yellow Tower. This 15 meter pitch, which is just below Camp 2, is one of the hardest pitches on the climb at HVS (5.8) standard. A short section of ridge now leads to Camp Two 5,900m. Camp Two has very limited tent space (3 or 4 tents platforms) and is extremely exposed. It is sometimes only used as an equipment dump with expeditions choosing to go from Camp I to Camp III in a single push.
From Camp Two, the climb skirts a red rock bluff on the east and after a step down, follows the snow ridge direct to an awkward traverse eastwards which leads to a gully between the Grey Tower and the lower rock buttress. We climb the gully until a very exposed traverse line is reached on the west side of the ridge. A short snow slope is ascended to the start of the Mushroom Ridge. This is followed and typically involves negotiating some steep snow sections, until Camp III 6,300m is reached .
The route climbs the snow and ice slope directly above Camp III and to the right hand side of the Dablam. We continue to skirt the Dablam on the right side and then move westwards to gain a small snowfield below the Burgschrund. The Burgschrund is crossed and then the climb heads directly to the obvious ice crest. This is followed in a magnificent position to the summit.
Day 28- Trek back to Namche Bazar (3441 meters), 6 hours. Overnight at guesthouse.
We descend to Namche bazar. If we are lucky, it will be market time in Namche. Regardless, there is always fabulous food to be found, including real espresso, yak steaks and chocolate cake with frosting! This market is where lowland porters bearing supplies meet the highland Sherpa and Tibetan people who have journeyed over high passes from many miles away to trade food and supplies for their home or village. Enjoy and celebrate your expedition.
Day 29- Trek to Lukla (2808 meters), 6 hours. Overnight at guesthouse.
Finally we return to Lukla where the trek began, which will seem like a lifetime ago. Enjoying time to reflect on the trek as a group and the personal achievement of all those who took part. Also giving you time to explore the town. Overnight at Guesthouse.
Day 30- Flight from Lukla to Kathmandu in the morning. Overnight at hotel.
Enjoying your last glimpse of the mountains you have recently visited for one last time on the 35 minute Scenic flight back to Kathmandu. On arrival in Kathmandu we are met and transferred back to our starting hotel. Overnight at hotel.
Day 31- Leisure day in Kathmandu. We will arrange farewell dinner for the team. Overnight at hotel.
This is also a buffer day in case our Lukla flight is delayed. If we fly out of Lukla on time we have a full day to relax and enjoy the various delights of Kathmandu. Ace the Himalaya will host an evening barbecue to celebrate the expedition and as a farewell party to thank the Sherpas and the team member for their support and friendship during the expedition with the hope of seeing you all again for next expedition, hopefully Everest!!!
Day 32- Transfer to international airport for your final flight departure.
The trip ends, our Airport Representative will drop you to the Kathmandu International Airport for your flight departure from Nepal.
PLEASE NOTE: The above itinerary is not a fixed program but is intended to give an indication of the likely events during the expedition. Please note that because of climbing High Mountain, it will be necessary to have a flexible plan in order to take the best advantage of situations as they present themselves. Any changes to the itinerary will be made with a view to maximizing the benefit to the team members and of ensuring their eventual success on the mountain.
Normally climbers will change their departure flights from Kathmandu when they know exactly when the expedition is going to end. We plan to stay at Base Camp for climbing as long as it takes for us to be successful.
Team members should take out private insurance if they wish to be covered against cancellation due to medical or personal reasons. This is called trip Cancellation insurance and can be obtained from your normal travel agent.
Our aim is to safely help as many team members as possible reach their goal, and we invest in the people and equipment that will make this happen. We value our reputation as the premiere climbing company in Himalayas and we only put programs in place that measure up to our own high standards. If you would like to join an excellent team on Ama Dablam, we encourage you to contact us to discuss your goals and qualifications and secure an exciting role for yourself on our team!
All of our local leaders are trained in first aid and have a good knowledge of high altitude medical problems. The expedition will be equipped with the following:
-A well stocked first aid and medical kit sufficient to counter any possible mountaineering ailments, from headache to serious injury.
-Oxygen equipment for medical and emergency use only.
-A portable hyperbaric chamber (Gamow bag)
-Emergency communications on the mountain and satellite communications link for helicopter evacuation.
Experience has shown how important it is on mountaineering to be able to talk to every team member, at all times. If you join Ace the Himalaya for Ama Dablam expedition you will have a dedicated radio. Each Sherpa will also have his own radio, so that at all times we can keep in touch with everyone, and everyone can keep in touch with each other.
We have an extremely good working relationship with the Helicopter Rescue Service, which means that an aircraft can be in the air immediately. Base Camp is equipped with a lap top and high speed satellite connection. The satellite communications are also used to send back regular reports, every couple of days, to Ace the Himalaya office. Expedition updates are then posted on the web and/or are sent to family and friends via email.
Oxygen & Rregulators
Normally climbers summit Ama Dablam without use of oxygen but we still supply them for emergency use. If you wish to use oxygen for summit day, please let us know in advance.
We will be using lightweight oxygen bottles, manufactured by Poisk. The Poisk bottles are without doubt the best available for mountaineering, as they have a proven track-record and are relatively light. The regulators are also manufactured by Poisk.
While the official name of the expedition will remain the "Ace Ama Dablam Expedition ", you can use another name for personal marketing purposes if it will assist you in any way. You will also be completely free to enter into personal agreements with sponsors or supporters if you choose.
Expedition members will need to provide 6 passport-size photographs for various climbing and trekking permits.
Sherpas are the indigenous people who were born in the Himalayas, reared in the Himalayas, involved in the occupation like climbing and mountaineering. Our Sherpa team has dozens of 8000 meters summits between them. We have a legendary group of Climbing Sherpas who operate the expedition and its members in a harmonious atmosphere of cooperation and commitment. Our group of climbing Sherpas is enthusiastic, motivated and regarded as the strongest and most cohesive group of Sherpas in the Himalayas. It is indicative of the reputation that our Sherpa team has earned - that Sherpas from other expeditions enthusiastically pursue a future position with the Ace the Himalaya Team.
Our cooking staffs are very well known for the quality of the cuisine they produce and as a consequence are coveted by other team leaders due to the reputation they have established.
Additional climbing Sherpa
In our normal expedition you carry your personal equipment; sleeping bag, mattress/s, down suit, snacks, clothing while the sherpas carry the meals, gas, stoves, tents and oxygen. The team climbs together between camps and a climbing sherpa will also accompany you to the summit. This is a good level of service, and suits most people, however if you want an additional climbing sherpa to assist with your personal equipment and to climb with you all the time, we can provide.
We provide updates using our own website so regardless of whether you have your own or not your family and friends will know what is happening.
• Airport / Hotel / Airport pick up & drop by private car / van / bus.
• Standard twin sharing accommodation in three/four star hotel in Kathmandu breakfast included. (6 nights)
• Guided city tour in Kathmandu by private car / van / bus.
• Full board meal during the trek and camping at base camp, prepared by our cook with hot Tea & coffee.
• All base camp and Advance base camp camping gears (We will provide fully water proof dining tents, kitchen gears, dining table, chairs, toilet tents, shower tent at the base camp and advance base camp)
• High quality tents for all camps.
• Insurance for all Nepali staffs and porters including helicopter rescue provision.
• Boiled and purify drinking water for the trek and at base camp.
• Expedition permits
• Liaison officer and his round trip flight, insurance, wages, expedition equipments etc.
• High altitude climbing food, fuel, Gas above base camp (you are also advised to bring some high altitude food yourselves)
• Guide, cook, porters, helpers up to base camp
• Climbing Sherpas (2 member = 1 Sherpa Ratio on climbing day)
• A well stocked first aid and medical kit sufficient to counter any possible mountaineering ailments, from headache to serious injury.
• Oxygen equipment for medical use only.
• A portable hyperbaric chamber (Gamow bag)
• Emergency communications on the mountain and satellite communications link for helicopter evacuation.
• Sightseeing/Monument entrance fees in Kathmandu.
• Welcome and farewell dinner for members in Kathmandu.
• Power supply at Base Camp for charging electronics (solar and generator backup)
• Flight cost from Kathmandu - Lukla - Kathmandu including airport departure tax at both airport.
• All our government taxes and vat.
• Lunch and dinner whilst in Kathmandu.
• Travel Insurance which cover emergency Rescue and Evacuation. (Ace the Himalaya strongly recommends that you purchase a Global Rescue membership to protect yourself. We are authorized agent of Global Rescue. Read about our emergency helicopter RESCUE & SECURITY EVACUATION Policy)
• International airfare and airport departure tax.
• Nepal entry visa fee (Tourist Visa with Multiple Entry for 90 days can be obtained by paying US $ 100 in Kathmandu airport up on your arrival. You will also require 2 passport size photos You can easily extend the visa if require.)
• Items of a personal nature such as alcoholic drinks, cold drinks, laundry.
• Personal trekking and Climbing Equipment.
• Any others expenses which are not mentioned on Price Includes section.
• Garbage Deposit USD 2000.00 (sharing from climbing group). It is refundable; however, it will not be refundable if the climbers fail to take back their garbage to Namche Bazar and Kathmandu.
• Excess baggage charges.
• Sherpa tip pool (See below)
• Internet and sat phone.
• Costs incurred as a result of delays or events beyond the control of Ace the Himalaya.
|Trip Duration:||32 Days|
|Trip Destination:||Amadablam Expedition
|Group Size:||1 - 12|
|Max. Altitude:||6856 meters
||Flight, Private Car or a Tourist Coach.|
|Accommodations:||LODGE CAMPING ( Both)|
|Trip Seasons:||Spring and Autumn only